Style Icon: Gretchen Jones

Fashion-Designer-turned-Strategic-Business-Advisor Gretchen Jones explains that the key to finding truly sustainable and environmentally friendly jewelry companies just might lie in small, independent brands. And, coincidentally, that may be the key to pulling off her incredibly amazing urban cowgirl/bohemian minimalist style as well.

Earrings: Modern Weaving Gamma Ray Earrings, Rings, Right Hand: Vintage Zuni Petit Point ring, Mociun Squiggle Pavé band, Rings, Left Hand: Kate Jones, Necklace: Merewif, Bracelets, Vintage Zuni Petit Point. Top: Silvae, Skirt: Whit.

I photographed Gretchen in her bright and beautiful Red Hook apartment. We talked about leaving her former career, going back to school, and finding a niche for herself that is truly inspiring, and something that is oh, so necessary in the fashion world. Gretchen is someone who makes me want to be better in my purchasing choices, as well as someone who makes me want to go out and purchase an entire new wardrobe.

Tell me a bit about yourself –where you live, your work, etc.

My name is Gretchen Jones, I live in Red Hook, Brooklyn. I am a Strategic Business Advisor and keynote speaker, whose work centers on transitioning our modes of operating professionally through the lens of altruism and holistic sustainability. Simply put — I help (creative) businesses practice more of what they preach, in both the products/services they create AND the way their businesses operate.

You currently work with creative entrepreneurs and companies to generate “healthful and inspiring work – always focused on social and environmental progress.” What, in your eyes, does it mean for a jewelry company to be truly healthy and sustainable?

I think it can be really easy to feel like you’re checking boxes and holding yourself accountable through being a small, independent maker/brand (most of the jewelry brands I wear and engage with) without actually doing the research and development to ENSURE you are socially and environmentally sound. Yeah, you can definitely check the box for slow manufacturing, recycled gems and made to order/low waste… It's MUCH harder to trace metals/gems, tour manufacturing partners, ship/distribute thoughtfully and be a good boss to your staff. I aim to wear work from makers/brands that go the extra mile.

Can you identify some jewelry brands that are there, or are working very hard to be there?

Seaworthy, Her New Tribe, Takara and Natalie Joy to name a few small/indie makers. It gets harder with scale I must say. Transparency is key, and yet hard to find in the jewelry industry.

How would you describe your personal jewelry style?

I used to wear a lot more, now I have a more discerning eye and style of adornment. I like a few bold pieces to compliment my Urban cowgirl/bohemian minimalism.

Earrings: Modern Weaving Sun Dial Globe Earrings, Rings, Right Hand: Mociun Squiggle Pavé band, Rings, Left Hand: Kate Jones, Bracelets, Krysos + Chandi. Jumpsuit: Christine Alcalay.

What makes your specific jewelry collection unique to you and your identity?

I think it mostly has to do with how few ‘brand names’ I own and how many small, independent brands I wear - and with pride.

What jewelry do you wear on a regular day?

Mociun diamond & moonstone studs, Takara sea stud earrings, my Kate Jones (Umajor) custom wedding rings.

On a special occasion?

Whatever best suits my ensemble. I base my jewelry selection on the outfit I put on.

Do you have a philosophy on how to accessorize?

Don’t overdo it, pick the right piece for the overall look you are building. Jewelry is the frosting on top, make sure it makes sense.

Do you plan the clothes first or the accessories first?

If I want to wear a specific piece of jewelry, I use that as the foundational piece for the look, if its a garment or shoe, I reverse it. It’s like creating a good meal, you need each item to make sense in the recipe so each ingredient has room to shine.

What are your go-to jewelry brands?

Modern Weaving, Leigh Miller, Faris, PD Paola, Merewif, Mociun, Her New Tribe, Uni, AK Studio, Natalie Joy, Seaworthy, Hernan Hernandez, Takara, See Real Flowers, etc...

What stores do you shop at? Both online and brick and mortar?

I try to buy directly from brands to help them with their margins.

What is the most special piece of jewelry you own and why?

My wedding ring and engagement rings because they are made from materials from both my husband and my heirloom pieces and designed in collaboration with Kate Jones… so they are modern and me, but new heirlooms to hand down. Also my grandmother Gretchen's pieces I inherited.

How does your work influence the way that you wear jewelry? Do you need to keep things simple while you work?

I can do literally WHATEVER I want style wise. I wear whatever, whenever and that’s just my cup of tea.

I have to ask – your winning collection on season 8 of Project Runway included some incredibly beautiful and unique jewelry that you created. Do you still have/wear those pieces?

You don’t get to own any of those pieces, nor the designs as a part of the contract. So no, I don’t have any of those pieces in my collection.

Earrings: Her New Tribe, Rings, Right Hand: Mociun Squiggle Pavé band, Rings, Left Hand: Kate Jones, Belt: Maryam Nassir Zadeh.

Did your work as a fashion designer influence the way you wear jewelry? Or did it introduce you to new pieces/brands?

I think my aesthetics and personal leanings towards independent, alternative design informed my style more than my profession. I’m just an [aging] hipster, who hates mass everything and I love a small maker with a distinct POV.

Do you think your current work actually opens you up to more?

Not producing/designing enables me to lean more honestly into my personal aesthetic and my presentation shows that. I just wear what I like, and love supporting and following only what I truly love, rather than what is ‘in’. It’s been liberating and special.

Can you tell me a story about a time when you discovered an amazing piece (either at a store, flea market, your mom’s closet)? Tell me about the hunt.

I have some remarkable vintage Zuni petit point turquoise pieces that were scavenged from decaying trading posts my college friends grandfather owned and operated in the 1970’s & 1980’s that are incredibly special to me. They are in disrepair… but are more beautiful because of it. It feels special to own such old, handmade, regionally and indigenously important pieces. I take deep care of them and hold them dear.

You travel frequently to meet with creative women. How do you pack and care for your jewelry when you’re on the go?

I build out my travel wardrobe by honing in on a single color palette. I set out each ‘look’ so that I can understand how versatile and modular the whole collection of pieces are and then I select my accessories/footwear and jewels that compliment not only one, but all outfits possible. Then I roll each look up with the jewelry included for ease of selecting a look for the day, only editing/adapting after wearing the initial look while abroad! It affords me more flexibility and opportunity to play as I travel.