Lorraine West // Lorraine West Jewelry
Lorraine West tells us about the evolution of her bold jewelry brand, her relationship with Erykah Badu, and then shows us how she makes her gorgeous Virgo Glyph Astro Cuff Bracelet.
Earrings: 4” Seamless Illusion Hoops, Bracelets: Capricorn Glyph Astro Cuff, Nipple Bangles, Oval Garland Bangle, Rings: Open Heart Ring, Garland Horseshoe Ring, Garland Bar Ring.
Lorraine West began her creative life as an illustrator, but today she makes women feel strong, confident, and extremely cool when they wear her jewelry.
Introduce us to you - both Lorraine West the woman and Lorraine West the company. Please share with us the story of how you began making jewelry.
First let me start by saying I am tremendously blessed to be doing this interview with you at this moment. I have this opportunity to do so because I’ve believed in myself enough to follow my dreams. I’m a woman filled with gratitude for all that I have, have experienced and lessons learned. I’m a spiritual being, artist, daughter, sister, friend, devoted wife, and mother, which brings me so much inspiration and joy. My journey as an artist started in the 1st grade after I won an art contest for a drawing called Never Swim Alone. I knew then I would become an artist. While completing my BFA in illustration at the Fashion Institute of Technology, I desired to express myself in another medium besides drawing and painting. I wanted to create something 3-Dimensional. So, I went to Toho Shoji in NYC and bought myself some pliers, cutters, wire and beads and started making wire wrapped rings, lock rings, earrings and necklaces. I had no clue I would fall in love with the process of designing and creating jewelry. I never stopped. I kept teaching myself new techniques over the years and here we are, over two decades later, and I’m still in love with the craft.
Who is the kind of woman who wears Lorraine West jewelry?
She is elegant, brave, bold, confident, strong and stylish. She makes a statement whether her style is minimal or over the top. She is full of love and wants to give it to herself and share it with the world. She lives her truth and finds balance between her spirituality, family life, creativity and business pursuits.
You have a longstanding relationship with Erykah Badu. Tell me about how she started wearing your designs, and what was the first piece she wore?
I met Erykah in 1996 at an underground event called The Sunday Tea Party. Local poets, musicians and visual artists would perform on stage and showcase their work. I had done an illustration of her and asked if I could give her a copy. She agreed, and I delivered it to her apartment the next day. She loved it and we stayed in touch. It wasn’t until a few years later when I started making leather cuff bracelets that she made her first custom order. I created a one of a kind pair of leather wrap fish cuffs for Badu. I had found a piece of a textured leather that reminded me of large fish scales. Erykah is a Pisces and it inspired me to make a pattern that looked like a giant fish when the cuff was open and laid flat. With a burning tool I engraved a marine life scene to accompany the existing pattern on the leather. When worn she would wrap the cuff around until the snaps met to close. For an extra special signature touch, I engraved “Badu” at the end of the fish tail. She loved those cuffs so much she wore them during her Mama’s Gun Tour, in press images and to the Grammy’s that year. Since then, she’s collected many LW collection pieces and we’ve collaborated on many iconic jewelry moments in Badu history.
What other celebs have worn your designs?
Some of my faves include; Serena Williams, Ava DuVernay, Mahershala Ali, Alicia Keys, Joi, Lady Bug Mecca, Estelle, Amanda Seales, Rutina Wesley, Dawanda Wise, Annabella Sciorra, Common, Questlove of the Roots, Raphael Saadiq and Andre 3000.
Who is your dream client, dead or alive?
Sade Adu.
Tell me about your studio - your space and your practice.
My studio faces the back windows in my home. It is light drenched during the day. The natural light allows me to see fine detail while sawing, soldering and polishing pieces. It’s also the perfect location to photograph my custom fine jewelry after completion. One of the greatest joys of creating my jewelry is photographing the process from start to finish. I take my custom clientele on a visual journey showing them progress along the way. My practice is simple, orders are always coming in so I’m always working. The most magical times at my bench is when I play and experiment with new ideas. It’s therapeutic alchemy for me.
On Lorraine: XL Open Heart Cuff Bracelet, Ribbon Slant Rings and Ribbon Slant Cuffs in 6mm and 12mm. XL Floating Triangle Ring. Open Heart Ring. On the wall is a one-of-a-kind “Higher Self”Head piece. On the jeweler’s bench is the Fawohodie Cuff bracelet and Ribbon Slant Collar.
When you’re making something, it’s really physical. You’re using a blowtorch, hammering and polishing everything. It makes your pieces seem so unique and so full of life. What else do you think makes Lorraine West jewelry one of a kind?
I love using my hands and utilizing my physical strength. Sometimes I am cutting and forging metal for hours on end. I’m putting all of my might into making my jewelry. I believe that same mighty energy stays in the piece and transfers to the wearer. I’m infusing vision, love, dedication and excellent craft ship in my work. My hammering technique is something that only I can replicate at my custom-made anvil. Every hammered piece has an impression from the years of wear that my anvil and hammer have taken on. Every hammer stroke has an intention.
Tell me about the custom-made anvil. How did you come by it?
My landlord (at the time) gifted me this custom anvil in 1999. I had just started making leather cuff bracelets. In order to attach the snaps for closure on the cuffs, I would go outside in front of my apartment building and hammer them directly on the concrete. My landlord was a builder and welder. He saw me outside hammering and didn't say a word, just smiled. The next day he came back to the building with a welded anvil with an LW burned on the front. It's one of my most precious possessions to this day. It has brought so much creativity and prosperity to my life.
My requisite collection is all made using this anvil. I have a small, smooth steel block for small pieces that don't require the hammered style. The anvil has been such an important tool for my work. Over time, the top surface has gotten worn from hammering eyelets and snaps onto the leather accessories. The marks and indentations from all the years of forging metal pieces make an impression on my metal work, and that’s become one of my signatures.
You’ve started making more delicate pieces recently. How do you balance making both kinds of work?
Evolution. I don’t limit myself to any one style or size. I do it all. I’ve discovered that no matter the size of a piece of jewelry, it can make a dynamic impact.
Bracelets: Capricorn Glyph Astro Cuff, Nipple Bangles, Oval Garland Bangle, Rings: Open Heart Ring, Garland Horseshoe Ring, Garland Bar Ring.
What is your best-selling piece?
The 3” Seamless Illusion Hoops in 14k.
How does your personal history - family life, your culture, race and gender - affect the jewelry you make?
My work is a reflection of all aspects of my inner and outer being, my observations, environment, experiences and my goals to reach my highest potential.
What role do your husband and son play in your work?
The Solomons (aka Sol and Solly) play a major part in my career success. Since I partly work from home, they get to see the inner workings of how I run my business. They see the ups and the downs of being a designer and entrepreneur. Their support in giving me space when needed to create, fulfill orders and/or work on operational tasks is crucial for success.
They inspire me so much. My husband, Sol, is a musician and visual artist. There's always amazing music playing in the background which keeps the creative juices flowing. We respect one another's craft and give one another space to develop it. My son is a multi-talented and passionate child. He is an A student, an athlete, artist, dancer, chess player and is learning French in school. He often asks if I need his help, and lately he likes to edit my copywriting. He's great at it. I'm so grateful for my family and the love we share. It's a daily inspiration to be my best self.
Rings: Open Heart Ring and Ascension Nail Halo Ring.
You made these amazing pieces to be worn on fingertips. I’ve honestly never seen anything like them, and I’m obsessed. Where did the idea for these come from? And how else are you making changes in traditional jewelry?
The Ascension Nail Halo Rings were inspired by the Khepera (Scarab Beetle) that represents the rising sun in Ancient Kemet (Ancient Egypt).
I was commissioned to design pieces for the fashion film, As Above, written and directed by Sewra Kidane and styled by Chandra Moore. They gave me full creative freedom to design pieces for all of the characters in the film. The “Higher Self” character needed a hero piece that would be memorable and tell her story. The oldest and brightest star is the sun. “Shine your inner and outer light endlessly.”
What are some of your goals for the future of your company? Where do you see yourself in 10 years?
Lorraine West Jewelry World Domination and Success beyond measure! The details are written in my book of dreams notebook.
You’re planning a book about the history of your jewelry, can you tell us about that?
The book will be a visual retrospective of my work, career highlights and the inspirational stories behind it.
Thank you so much, Lorraine!
